September 6, 2017

Morning and Boarding

Neither of us are morning people (at all) and neither of us like coffee (unfortunately), so we were a little bummed that the cruise shuttle picked us up a solid twenty minutes late. That was twenty minutes we could have slept! However, we didn’t have a lot of room to complain because we had read reviews that let us know it was often late prior to booking and ignored them.

Most of the cruises sail for five hours, and most companies offer two sailings each day. We had several mutually indecisive discussions about whether to book a morning cruise or an afternoon cruise. If we booked in the afternoon we wouldn’t have to get up early, plus we would get to see the sunset from the catamaran. However, that would probably mean that the cruise would be the only sightseeing we accomplished that day. On the other hand, if we booked the morning cruise we would be forced to get an earlier start on the day and have the whole afternoon and evening to explore Oia, whence the cruises depart.

We chose to go with the morning cruise because we wanted to get the full experience of sunset in Oia, the most famous sunset location in Santorini and a contender for sunset fame around the world. We booked our cruise with Sunset Oia, one of many similar options, because reviews indicated less people per catamaran.

The shuttle was a 15-passenger van, and we were one of the first groups to board. By the time we reached the port in Oia the van was full. The port (a generous word in this case) is at the base of Oia at the bottom of a long, curving hill. At the top of the incline our van swung around and proceeded to back down the extremely narrow road at a high speed. It was terrifying, and I think we were all relieved to disembark. A port employee met us at the van and showed us through the mass of people to a semi-recognizable line to check in. There were some nasty looks passed around due to perceived and actual cutting, encouraged by the line being so disorganized. When we finally got to the little desk set up a lady checked us in and gave us large round stickers to put on our shirts. The colour of the stickers indicated which catamaran you were, eventually, to board. I was disappointed to see that our stickers showed we were on one of the larger boats, which would mean more people.

After several other catamarans had filled they called for dark blue stickers, and we removed our shoes to walk across the metal plank. There was a rope “railing” you could hold to steady yourself. I was unduly pleased that we were on a white boat instead of a gaudy red one. There was an initial meeting on the bottom deck with all the tourists and the three crew members (excluding the captain). A lively tanned woman with an accent explained general safety information, pointed out the restrooms, and showed everyone where the wine and soda were (included in the price of your ticket). She then told us we could go back up to the main deck or climb the spiral stairs to an upper deck where the captain was.

Sailing

Initially we went up to the top level, joined by one other couple. They were celebrating their anniversary and we enjoyed talking to them about our travels. It was fun to watch the captain for the bit, and the seating was comfortable. As it was higher up there was increased wind and as it was covered there was no shade. We soon decided to go down to the main deck, but since we were now late comers we ended up sitting on the netting. This was all well and good except that every now and then the ocean would splash up through the netting, and I mean UP, and completely douse us. The water was freezing and the breeze unforgiving. The boat provided us with one towel each, which were both soaked after the first wave, so we were chill. Later on we were able to move to a padded area and lay out, which was a warm relief and lovely. The sun balanced out the wind when you weren’t wet.

Our first stop was the hot springs, which did not live up to the name. I took the advice of bloggers before me and made sure I did not wear my white swimsuit, as the thick sulfur will yellow it. Our catamaran stopped in a semi-circle alongside four others, and most everybody jumped off and swam for the hot springs. The hot springs would be more aptly called the “slight-less-freezing-than-the-rest-of-the-ocean springs”. We stayed for a while, moving around looking for patches of warmth and taking in the cliffs before we swam back. I decided that was about enough water for me.

Our other stops included mid-ocean snorkeling, which was only minorly impressive. We skirted close to Red Beach and White Beach, and it was interesting to see them from the ocean’s perspective. Boats are not allowed to dock too close, but if you were dedicated you could possibly swim ashore from where we anchored. With just 30 minutes per stop it would be risky.

At lunchtime the crew put together a delicious, home-style Greek lunch on the lower deck. It included skewered chicken and pork BBQ, white bread, Greek salad, vegetables, and a gooey vegetarian mixture completely unrecognizable to me.

View from the top deck, on the back of the boat

The left wall of the hot springs – notice the structure on the cliff

The tiny church surrounded by the hot springs… this location is inaccessible by land

White Beach

Snorkeling in the Aegean Sea

Other catamarans anchored off one of the beaches

Disembarking

It truly was a fine afternoon and we both appreciated seeing the entire inside curve of the island from sea. Being on the catamaran so long forced us to slow our pace and enjoy the sunshine and breeze. However, we found that the Sunset Oia website had neglected to make clear that while it departed from Oia it actually returned to Vlychada Marina, on the complete opposite end of the island.

We had considered making wine tour reservations in Oia after the cruise, and it was a great relief we hadn’t when we realized it was going to take us a while to get back there. After everyone disembarked we were directed to stand in our group so drivers could fetch us. A driver came and called out the last names and hotels of all but 6 of us. A few minutes later another drive came and called out the names and hotels of the other two couples. I was surprised and uneasy to be the lone couple out. We stood for a long while before Timothy ran back along the long dock to ask the crew members if there were any other instructions. I was stressing out by the second that the driver would come while he was gone, but I was also stressing as time slipped past with us stranded in a secluded, ugly marina on our honeymoon.

After a great deal of waiting and running and talking to different people it was discovered the first driver was supposed to have taken us. We waited just over an hour, with concerningly unclear communication about what was happening, before the driver came back and got us. We felt terrible when we realized he had brought everyone on the bus back with him! I have no idea how he didn’t manage to drop anyone off in that time. Trying to clear things up he showed us the list, and sure enough our name was on it – it was the only one not circled. I’m still not sure what happened. We were the second to last couple to be deposited back at their hotel, and we calmed our nerves with a quick dip in the spa.

Quad from Firostefani to Oia

While I changed Timothy walked to the quad rental company our hotel had recommended, which was very close. We did a 24-hour rental of a two-person quad for 36 euro – and considering how much fun we had, it was a steal.

I read a blog before we left written by a woman who felt very strongly that quads should not be rented because they are annoying to locals. I wholeheartedly contest that, for several reasons. Santorini’s industry is tourism. The quad rentals are huge on the island, as attested by the abounding locations offering this service. Additionally, the roads on Santorini are extraordinarily narrow. It is a small, crowded island. There are many, many more quads than cars, and that goes for both rentals and local drivers. Unless you’re a fearless shuttle driver, a car would be a pain to maneuver and in some cases dangerous.

I was wearing a two-piece dress with a maxi skirt for our jaunt to Oia. Luckily the skirt had a fairly high split, so I didn’t have trouble sitting on the quad behind Timothy. I don’t believe in being overdressed, and if I have an opportunity to wear something gorgeous from lulus.com I’m going to do it! Timothy thought we should wear the included helmets, but I wanted to feel the wind in my hair so they went in the bin on the back. (Sorry mom!)

The drive to Oia was breathtaking. We saw much of their second largest industry, vineyards, and more churches. I swear there is a church every few steps on Santorini. I loved the curves of the road. I loved that the speed limit was 50 kilometers/hour, and I loved that nobody paid any attention to it. It was almost a shame to arrive.

 

Undeterred by my maxi skirt

Agriculture is the second largest industry on Santorini, after tourism

Unique terrain abounded

 

Oia

There was easy parking right outside Oia, and we walked in through a concrete alley that proved to be the first of many. We were greeted by a stray cat, which also turned out to be the first of many. I adore every creature with fur and I won’t pretend I didn’t love every second making friends and petting the cats of Santorini, but realistically they represent something very sad. Winters are harsh not only because of cold but because many establishments that operate to accommodate tourists close for the season, and if there were kind souls setting out food for a stray they disappear. There is currently NO cat shelter on Santorini. (If you’re interested, you can donate to the humane sterilization of Santorini cats and help address the problem at it’s root here: http://www.santorini-cats.com/support.html )

If Fira has shops, Oia is the shopping district. If Santorini is a tourist island, Oia is where they congregate. Timothy and I travel light, both to save money not checking bags and time not having to wait for luggage. On our two weeks honeymoon we carried a backpack each and one camera bag. That did not leave an inch of room for us to take home souvenirs, which meant that all our shopping was done through windows.

Easily our favorite part of Oia was Atlantis Books. Tucked on the side of a shop lined street, you could walk up steps to a platform hosting miscellaneous bookshelves, or downstairs to an adorable shop filled to the brim with literature. We explored every corner. Not only do they have notecards recommending books with irresistible descriptions, but they have many first editions and other collectibles. I would love to go back with an empty suitcase and fill it.

One of many concrete alleys in Oia 

Blue is an ongoing theme on the island

My favorite shop – Atlantis Books 

One of my go-to vacation dresses from lulus.com

One of many stray cats we befriended… there is no cat shelter on Santorini 

 

Sunset in Oia

For sunset we made our way to the Byzantine Castle Ruins, a highly praised location to watch the sunset in Oia. It was easy to see it was indeed a great spot, but it was also very crowded. People gathered hours early to claim their place along the walls. We would not have stayed there, except that we found a ledge, on a lower level, where we could climb sort of behind a big rock yet see with a perfectly clear view. It was very lucky we found it.

I was amazed at the crowds that gathered. The sunset was red, clear, and beautiful. It was painted across the sky without a cloud in sight, reflecting on the water and contrasting against the catamarans below. The windmills and whitewashed villas turned orange with the sky. I see why the sunset in Oia is famous, but to be honest I enjoyed our private screening on a rooftop in Firostefani, the night before, better.

We explored Oia all over again after dark. It seemed even more crowded as the people that had been staking out their spots for sunset were freed to wander. Eventually we drove the quad back, which was a little more intimidating than the ride there due to the darkness, curves, and terrible drivers. After parking easily behind our hotel we walked into Fira and got more chicken-on-a-stick (Greece knows how to make it) and then returned to Zafora Restaurant Café for dessert.

Walking out to then looking up at the Byzantine Castle Ruins, a popular spot to view sunset

Insane crowds assemble in Oia for sunset every night

Looking back over Oia and along the island from the ruins, before the crowd overran them

The sunset catamaran cruises dotted the water 

Views from our nook on the Byzantine Castle Ruins

After people started to clear out

The view after nightfall continued to stun

 

Follow for blog updates – Santorini day 3 is coming soon, then it’s on to Athens!